Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Day 19

Day 19 January 22, 2008

 

This day began with bright sun streaming into our windows, we slept  until eight (what a luxury) and then upstairs to a great breakfast. The maid cleans our room while we have coffee so imagine my surprise when we returned and my camera was sitting on my nightstand!  Yesterday, we looked everywhere and can only figure it fell out of my pocket and was lost in the sumptuous layers of bedding and pile of pillows on our bed.  In order to save water, the hotel washes linens every 3 days. Today was laundry day and the camera reappeared. We are happy. Imagine, we were somehow sleeping with my lost camera under the pile.  I let out a shout of joy and Dale came in and took a photo of me and the miraculous lost and found camera.  And to think we accused a poor merchant of pick pocketing!

 

     We went to the pool for a couple of hours to read and Dale called the man from Mono Azul, the large fruit exporter, to schedule a meeting for tommorow.  The stock market is crashing worldwide and it is difficult for Dale not to watch, but he decided to just ignore it until the end of the day.  So we went for another long walk. We explored the Puerto Madero neighborhood that is Buenos Aires's port and trade gateway to Europe. The city outgrew the old port in 1910 and it was abandoned for almost a century. Currently the waterfront has been developed and looks much like San Francisco lined with a riverfront promenade and cute restaurants. There are dozens of skyscrapers and at least 20 cranes in the process of building more beautiful buildings.  Just across from our restaurant was the Microsoft, Sun, ABN Amro, IBM and dozens of similar corporate towers.

     While we dined at the Sorrento restaurant on salad, seafood and profiteroles, a cute little girl with her accordion came by our table. Now I am a sucker for street musicians. So we gave the little girl 2 pesos and she posed for a picture. She then squeezed the accordion back and forth making the worst music I have ever heard. Obviously, the accordion was her prop for begging. She could not play a note. I was expecting a child prodigy. Oh well, once again we had an excellent meal. Dale was especially happy to get his favorite dessert, profiteroles. 

     Then we walked to the dock and tried to book our tickets to Uruguay on the Buquebus.  This is a large ferry that carries over 1000 passengers and 200 cars at a very high speed.  It looks ultramodern and goes back and forth twice a day.  Each trip takes three hours.  It should have been a simple process to buy two tickets.  It was not.  First we went to the Tourist information office and no one spoke English but sent us to the inside office.  We took a number and waited in line.  No one called any numbers and a lot of people were just sitting at their desks, doing nothing.  Finally Dale just walked up to one of the desks and the young woman (who did not speak English) asked where we wanted to go.  We said to Montevideo on Jan 24 returning on Jan 27.  She took our passports and filled in the information on the computers.  But she would not take our credit card, he waved us over to the next room and said we had to stand in line and make a confirmed reservation there.  After waiting for over 20 minutes in that line, the young man (who spoke very little English) reentered the same information from the passports and waived us over to a fourth line to pay.  We were a little frustrated by the inefficiency, and waited only 10 minutes in the last line.  There he asked if we wanted Tourist class ($476 pesos) First Class ($526 pesos) for First Especial Class ($626 pesos).  Since he spoke no English, and I was too tired to ask him to explain the difference, I said "First Class."  He THEN said, "Oh, we only have First Especial Class for your return trip."  So I said, OK, then give us the First Especial Class.  He printed the tickets and in 48 hours we will be riding in First Especial Class.  Should be a pretty especial trip.  Ah, life is interesting.  And the stock market, after falling 500 points at the open ended down only 109.  And so it goes. At least life does have some profiteroles to go along with the BS. 

 

 

 

 


 

Monday, January 21, 2008

a special find

We want to remember this restaurant for our next visit to Buenos Aires.....we love Argentina!
 

our hotel suite

Gail reads and plans for sightseeing tomorrow while relaxing in our beautiful suite.
 

Plaza San Martin

A frequent scene in the Plaza San Martin

Day 18


 

Day 18, January 21, 2008

 

     36 years ago Dale and I arrived at the gorgeous Banff Springs Hotel on our honeymoon and there was "no room in the Inn". Dale likes to travel impromptu which sometimes offers great travel experiences but sometimes not! (Many of you have heard this story before) This week Dale surprised me in Buenos Aires and had previously reserved the corner suite at the magnificent Marriott Plaza Hotel on San Martin Plaza which is the grande dame hotel of Buenos Aires built in 1909. This stay has been like a second honeymoon.  He even reserved privileges at the executive lounge where we have breakfast and can snack anytime of the day or night. Well done Dale. From this location, we can easily stroll and watch the street scenes on the Calle Florida Street nearby, have convenient access to tourist sites and all the best restaurants. We watch locals line the street, pack the café terraces and stroll and kiss in the park. Things always take a long time here and we find we are adapting to this new rhythm of life. 

 

     Today we had a morning cappuccino at the historic Café Tortoni which has served as the artistic and intellectual capital of Buenos Aires since 1858. After a leisurely two hour morning stroll, we realized one of our cameras was missing. After retracing our steps, we recall a young man bumping Gail to offer her a brochure.  There are many young men and women trying to get your attention and hand you cards or brochures for discounts for tango shows or shops.  The crowds are so thick you are bumped all the time. It only took him a second to slip the camera from Gail's pocket.  Sadly that camera had a lot of great photos that had not yet been downloaded.  Dale's camera is also not working right, probably overloaded with photos.  We need to quickly figure out how to fix it or our blog will be short on photos. A beautiful city, but pick pockets are prevalent.

      We had a late lunch at Ligure, a romantic restaurant built in 1933 with French inspired cuisine. I was brave and ordered centolla with Parmesan which I knew was seafood but was not sure what; it turned out to be Argentinean King Crab. Dale's calamari was delicious but paled in comparison to my meal.  I agree Dale, sometimes those impromptu, unexpected travel experiences do turn out to be memorable. I know my lunch was a nice surprise.  Salut to another 36 years of marriage and travel!

     Looks like the labor strike in Nuequen is now settled so we are trying to decide what to do next…

Calle Florida a pedestrian thoroughfare

The Calle Florida is lined with boutiques, restaurants, tango dancers, and street performers who do magic and sing opera.

Paris of the South

We feel like we have been transplanted into Europe by the Parisian architecture and street scenes
 

Marriot Hotel in Buenos Aires

A beautiful hotel built in 1909

Day 17

Day 17  January 20, 2008

 

     The city of Buenos Aires is not Paris, although everyone says it is the Paris of South America, the most beautiful city in the Southern Hemisphere, that walking down the broad boulevards here is like the Champs Elysee.  But for us on this first days wandering and touring BA the city is wonderful, a feast for the spirit in its color and diversity, the music (mostly tango but some guitar and some chamber music) that flows around the corner from parks, green spaces, pedestrian streets, bars, retail stores, homes.  The crush of happy people, crowding in flea markets, craft stalls overflowing with hand made necklaces, purses, dresses, paintings, carved wood pieces, food stalls, with empanadas, sweets, drinks, mate cups and maps.  The mansions are really mansions, this nation had great wealth about 100 years ago and the rich folks tried to replicate the best of Europe in their houses, public buildings and universities.  Massive sculptures fill the gardens, art museums, churches are gorgeous.  We went to their White House, called the Casa Rosada, as it is pink (there were two political parties one using red and the other white for their colors.  When they compromised they painted the President's house pink. It actually is sort of rose and looks very nice.

     We took a three hour guided tour with five other people.  The guide spoke English well and we got off the minivan at least 6 times to walk around the various neighborhoods.  Thousands of peoples in every street from the Recolta and Puerto Maduro expensive neighborhoods, to the San Telmo and La Boca where the poor people live.  Even in the shanty town built alongside the old port and under the freeway, where the demonstrators stood with placards and banners and the two dozen police in riot gear stood opposite them as they argued over the recent firings of 20% of the employees of the local Casino.  Tango dancers posing for photos in the streets of La Boca and tango dancers dancing for fun in the streets, simply dancing for joy and not as a way of earning a living or asking for tips.

     La Boca is the most colorful neighborhood.  It is at the south side of the city, along the old port.  The poor Italian immigrants who did not go north to Ellis Island in NYC often wound up here.  The living conditions were worse here than in NY and they struggled to survive.  Now there is a great pride in being from this area.  The have their own football team and a stadium that will seat 70,000 screaming fans.  In one of the odd factoids of this trip, the top of the stadium is covered with Coca Cola signs, the ubiquitous one we have all seen a million times.  But for the first time in my life, it is not red and white, it is black and white.  Can you imagine?  And the best part is the reason why.  Coke agreed to be a major advertiser of the team but the archrivals of the Boca team is from across town and their colors are red and white.  The people from Boca would not allow any red in their stadium.  Their colors are blue and yellow, from the Swedish flag, and everything in the town is painted those bright and cheerful colors.  The red was banned and Coke complied.

     We walked and walked, took a hundred photos, even went to the cemetery where Evita is buried and took a photo of her tomb which is covered with fresh flowers and surrounded by a hundred Argentines who love her and mourn here today 54 years after her death from cancer.  They revere her as most Brits to Princess Diana.  After a full and exhausting day, we had a nice Italian dinner at 10:30 pm.  Then we came back to the hotel and watched the NFL playoff games in Spanish on ESPN.  These are the first American football games we have seen on the trip.  Since NY Giants didn't finally win until 1:30 am here, we fell asleep watching the game.  A day of 85 degrees, sunshine, tango and Eva Peron's tomb, friendly people and football.

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Tango on Calle Florida

Tango on a pedestrian street - Calle Florida.

Kate Foreman

Kate Foreman checking into Business Class
 

Day 16 part 2


     The day began bright and warm with sunny skies and we took a long walk past dozens of small shop keepers, sweeping their portion of sidewalks and getting ready for a busy Saturday. San Rafael  was fresh and beautiful, the thunderstorm and heavy rain last night washed the strees and the air smelled beautiful. At 1pm we left for the airport and what a surprise.
     First when we arrived it was a small but brand new airport building.  We walked into the ticket area and the young woman ticket agent asked my name.  As soon as I said "Foreman" she smiled and said, in perfect English, "Yes, we have your reservation.  I only need your payment."  I asked how much it was and she said:  "The Groupo Alvarez office called and booked you in Business Class.  Are you paying with credit card or cash?"  I asked again, how much were the tickets.  She hesitated and said, well if you pay by credit card I have to call and get clearance.  It would be simpler if you just paid cash.  Well, I may not have enough pesos, (so for the third time I asked) How much is it? 
     She said, well it will be $280 if you pay cash.  The Business Class tickets are much more than that for foreigners, but because Groupo Alvarez booked the ticket I am charging you as a local person.  If you use your credit card, I will have to charge the regular fare. 
     I handed her $300 in American cash.  She gave me back the change in pesos and printed out the tickets.  Then we saw Gail's name was wrong, it said "Kate Foreman."  I pointed that out to the agent and asked if they would let her on the plane with the wrong name.  "Oh, no problem. The people from Groupo Alvarez forgot her name, but we all know she is Senora Foreman, so there will be no problem."  It just proves, its not what you know, but who you know.
     We were treated like royalty, whisked through a minimal security and onto the plane.  A delightful 90 minute flight over the vast Pampas and we were in Buenos Aires.  We took a cab into the center of town and checked into the Marriott Plaza on the main square San Martin Plaza. 
     This is a magnificent hotel in a great location.  We walked again, for an hour, all around the pedestrian only Calle Florida.  We tried to photograph the Tango dancing demonstration but the dancer was spinning so fast she blurred my photo. It was a great day, and from now on I will be refering to my wife as:  Kate, or Gail, or whatever her name is.

Protestors block highway

The citizens in Tunuyan block the road to protest new mine project
 

Day 16 part 1

Last night one of our local hosts, Ricardo unexpectedly appeared at our hotel in San Raphael to announce a change in our travel plans. Evidently the Agricultural workers are on strike in General Roca which was to be our next destination. A workers strike is not unusual in Argentina. Currently, the Aerolíneas Argentinas airline workers are on strike. It enters its second week today has no end in sight according to this morning`s Buenos Aires Herald newspaper. Last Monday, a roadblock forced passengers to drag their suitcases for three kilometres in 92 degree heat to an aircraft which remained grounded. Dale and I are grateful that we fly home on Lan Chile airline. We were scheduled to take a 10 hour sleeper bus to General Roca from San Raphael but now will fly east to Buenos Aires instead. Our Argentinian hosts feared the worker strike might block the national route and we would be stuck in the middle of nowhere on our sleeper bus. We are most grateful to Mauro (in Wenatchee) and our local hosts who are looking out for our best interests.
 
A few days ago we personally witnessed and photographed a demonstration in Tunuyan that blocked the road where we were traveling. This demonstration was staged to block a new mine development in the region. Our hostess there explained that Argentinians do not trust the government to look out for their best interests and therefore the people have to "speak for themselves". She personally had participated in this local demonstration that very morning before she took us to lunch. 
 
Stay tuned as our adventures continue......
 

Our Adventure guide

Our San Raphael adventure guide -  Gustavo Bruni

Friday, January 18, 2008

Adventure tour in San Rafael

Gustavo Bruni drove us on our Adventure Tour in his huge Land Rover
 

White water rafting

Grade 1 White water rafting in the Canyon del Atuel con Valle Grande

Entrance to La Valle Grande

Entrance to La Valle Grande

coral snake = golf hazard


Coral snake = golf hazard

El Lago in La Valle Grande

El Lago in La Valle Grande