Saturday, May 26, 2012

Room 604 at K & K Cayre Paris

Sometime serendipity is better than planning.  Gail is a great
planner.  Dale loves to go on vacation with a minimum of reservations
and a maximum of possibilities, flexibility and spontaneity.
Sometimes, looking back, a little more planning could have avoided a
trouble or two.  But it was pure serendipity that when we booked this
hotel, the place where we are celebrating Gail's Big birthday (I am
not saying in a blog just how Big) that the lottery of life gave us
room 604.The view from the room is of the Tour Eiffel and the dome of Les
Invalides (where France honors her war heroes and where Napoleon is
buried.). And even when relaxing in the bathtub you have  a view of
the tower.  At night, when the tour is illuminated and the moon is
flying by, it recreates the scene from the Moulin Rouge movie when the
pistol is flying out the window and hits the tower.  It is pure magic.
It is a perfect view.  Our photos will not do it justice, but believe
us, it is the most romantic view in the world.  If you are coming to
Paris, and if you are a planner, ask for Room 604.  If you are not a
planner, it is better to be lucky than good.  I feel lucky to have
been married to Gail for forty years and to have been given this room
to celebrate her birthday. Dale

Winged Victory at Louvre


La Jocanda at Louvre


artist painting copy of painting


Inside Louvre Museum


Outside Louvre Museum


afternoon delight


Rabbit lunch today


Bateaux Mouches


Monet Waterlilies at l'Orangerie Museum


Jardin des Tuileries


A favorite seat in St Germain des Pres


Seafood Cassoulet


Le Petit St Benoit Restaurant


Petit St Benoit

We walked from our hotel up the Blvd St. Germaine until the Cafe Flore and turned left down the little street known as St Benoit.  At the foot of the street is an historic little eatery, Le Petit St Benoit.  It has been there, serving up stews and simple fare since 1901.  Any restaurant that can last 111 years in Paris must be pretty good. The first time I ate there was in 1969.  Clyde Foreman and I were staying in a one star hotel on the Blvd Edgar Quinet.  It cost $2.00 per night for lodging so we had $3.00 to spend on food each day.  the only place we ever found that could provide food for that price was Le Petit St Benoit.  We ate there a lot.
Gail and I have been there many times since.  The food is always good and the prices still about half when you would pay one block away at the Cafe Flore, or the Brasserie Lipp or the Deux Maggots.  Last night the proprietor came out and I told him we have been coming back to his little restaurant for over 43 years.  He beamed with pride, thanked us and asked if we could write something nice about the restaurant on Trip Advisor.  We had the same request from the owner of Te Amo Lucy's in Mazatlan last time there.  Of course we did in Mazatlan, and will now in Paris.  The BB (boeuf bourguinon) was good and the fish cassoulet even better.  The Camembert was spectacular.  But the best part of the meal was the country pate and crispy bread.  Wine from Chinon and smiles all around the place. We sat next to a couple from San Francisco who just flew in, they have been married 44 years, and they too like to come back to this place.  There are some nice aspects to growing old.  Refreshing sweet memories with someone you love is one. Dinner cost $50 but the evening was priceless. Dale

Musee D'Orsay

View from Musee D'Orsay

Paris Museum Pass

We bought the four day Paris museum pass, it is like Disneyland for
grown ups, admission to over 60 museums and monuments. Yesterday we
visited the Musee D'Orsay for three hours, then walked back to St.
Germaine de Pres church. This morning we walked to the Louvre and
spent three hours with Winged Victory, La Jocanda and their closest
friends (along with thousands of other visitors) then walked through
the Tuileries gardens to the Orangerie and saw an exposition on
Debussy Musique and Art. They also had many wonderful paintings by
Renoir, Picasso, Manet, Henri Rousseau, Derain, Utrillo and Cezanne.
The Monet waterlillies were on exhibit, huge walls, ten or twelve
meters long each, showing the Lillie's from his home in the country.
Paris art cannot be topped. We plan to go to the Sainte Chapelle,
Notre Dame towers and crypt, and will probably have time to revisit
the Arc de Triomphe, the Pompideau and the Pantheon. So much to see,
so little time. It is about 75 degrees out, a bit warm for so much
walking, but we are having a ball. Hope you enjoy the photos, but you
should plan to come and visit yourself. Dale

Saint Germain des Pres Cathedral

The Magic of Paris

Friday, May 25, 2012

Farewell Florence

Gail really wanted to visit Italy this year. I was not enthusiastic.
She was right. The countryside is sweet, covered with well tended
vines, farms and quaint houses and barns. The cities were
spectacular. Streets brimming with happy, busy people, stylish shop
windows, restaurants that ooze charm, smells of good hearty cooking,
sounds of motorcycles and horns. A feast for the senses. We had a
wonderful week in Italy. The architecture is monumental, the statues
unbelievable, the art and museums incomparable. It almost makes me
wish I was Italian. But then being in Italy does make you a little
crazy in the head. Long live Sweden. Now wait a minute, lutefisk,
freezing winds, long dark nights, no art, no cuisine, no memorable
churches or museums. No wonder my grandfather left Stockholm in 1910
and came to America. Viva Italia.

Gothic Cathedral di Santa Maria del Fiore

Coffee break at Uffizi Gallery - amazing museum!

Santa Croce church with precious art

Bob Scaramuzza

We have met several interesting people in Florence. One day we struck
up a conversation with two young men while sitting out a cloud burst
in a sidewalk cafe. They were pilots from Champaine, Illinois who had
flown their private jet to Monaco for the Gran Prix. They were
"hanging out" in Italy while their rich patron partied in Monoco.
After their story, we decided to skip Nice and fly straight to Paris.

But the most interesting folks we met at dinner last night, Bob
Scaramuzza and his wife from Philly. They met when she came to work
in his grandmothers pasta shop when she was 15. He had been working
there since he was 12. Now they have two kids in college and he owns
the pasta shop. They sell throughout the region and he has not had
more than a one week vacation in 40 years. His brother died last year
and Bob decided not to wait any longer before visiting his grandmas
homeland. They are salt of the earth, hard working small business
folks and we enjoyed our conversation. They went to Venice for 5
days, then Florence for 3, they travel to Rome and then Sorrento
before returning to their pasta factory. We told them about James'
sushi business and the apple business. He told us about his website
and the many types of pasta he sells in Wegmans and Giant Food stores.
A very pleasant evening, and a great meal at Da Osvaldo Restaurant on
the Piazza Peruzzi. http://www.scaramuzzaspasta.com

Views of the City

Artist at work

Plaza Michelangelo

Shops on Ponte Vecchio

View from the Ponte Vecchio

Ponte Vecchio

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

The Duomo, Florence

Kiss Me Kate

Today as we walked to the Pitti Palace in Florence we strolled across the famous Ponte Vecchio bridge. I could not help but hum a song from the musical "Kiss Me Kate".  Petruchio sings to Kate after he marries the shrew..."Where is the Life that Late I Led?"  I am recalling the words he sings....... "And in Firenze (Florence) where are you Alice? Still there in your pretty, itty-bitty Pitti Palace.....Where is Rebecca, my Becki-weki-o, Again she is cruising that amusing Ponte Vecchio". So funny! First of all, the Pitti Palace is more than two football fields long,made of heavy stones and is set on a hill. (Not exactly an itty -bitty palace) and I wouldn't exactly call the Ponte Vecchio amusing. This bridge has spanned the Arno river since Roman times and is lined with gold and silver shops. Cole Porter had a real sense of humor!

Florence is touristy but we enjoy viewing all the incredible artistic masterpieces. So much so, that we decided to extend our stay here. That means we will have to skip Provence this trip which was not an easy decision. We love our Lucchesi Hotel near the Santa Croche Cathedral. Tonight we plan to spend the evening at the Plaza Michelangelo which promises a good view of the city. Tomorrow we fly to Paris. We have mixed feelings about not taking the train through Tuscany but it is a ten to fifteen hour trip to Paris so we will take a two hour flight as we are simply running out of travel time.  Next time Provence and Tuscany.  

Sunday, May 20, 2012

Antipasto

The women in Rome

The men in Rome

A Sunday in Rome

Each day we try to sample typical Roman food. The first was pizza
Neapolitano, then pasta with mussels and Sardinian tuna. We enjoyed
the bread, bruschetta with tomatoes and basil, cannelloni, ravioli,
olives, mixed salads, veal marsala with mushrooms and fried squid,
shrimps and little fish. The antipasto plates are always great. The
wine has been hit or miss, too many misses for us to rave about, but
the food has been wonderful. And the gelato, wow. I wish we could
bring the pistachio home with us. Gail loves the lemon and everyone
is walking around Rome with an ice cream cone, or a cell phone in
hand. People watching is part of the joy of travel. We walked miles
today and saw locales gather in sidewalk cafes all over the city.

St Peters Plaza

Dale has seen the light

How can you visit St. Peters and not be moved. As we walked into the
vast space the organ sounded and a choir began to sing. A priest
intoned the beginning of the mass and the several hundred people
inside craned their heads towards the front chapel, hidden behind the
high altar. It was as if angels were singing and the sunlight poured
into the nave. We stood spellbound, humbled and filled with joy and
peace. Gail took a picture of me standing there. I have indeed seen
the light. Dale

Swiss Guards at St Peters

Saint Peters Cathedral

Saturday, May 19, 2012

Apollo


Stones Endure

In 1969 Clyde Foreman and I arrived in Rome, tired, hungry and hot.
It was July and we had spent the previous days in Switzerland where it
was cool and beautiful. We had a book Europe on $5 a Day and we
stayed on budget. Many a night Clyde complained that he was still
hungry, but we spent 14 weeks in Europe, saw 12 countries, learned a
lot about life including how to live on bread, cheese, salami and
little else. Life was pretty good if you could live within your
means. Now it costs $5, actually 4 Euros, for a cup of coffee. the
hotels are $400 per day and lunch costs $75 and dinner $130. America
is still fighting, Afghanistan not Vietnam. Greece is going broke,
Italy and Spain are close behind. But here the streets are full, the
restaurants still serve fabulous food and the art and museums are the
greatest. We see few American tourists compared to the old days.
There are many Germans, Russians, Chinese and Indians. We hear a lot
of French and the Scandinavian languages spoken. The world is
amazing, renewal as seasons change and civilizations rise and fall.
When I was here in 1969' the American century was in full swing. We
have been to many beautiful places in Europe in the intervening 43
years. I have the sense something major is happening here. The great
landmarks will remain, the fountains, the churches, the museums, the
Roman ruins, stones endure. But the systems made by man, the Euro,
the European Union, the web of banks and pension plans and
universities, NGO's and bureaucracies are running into economic
reality. Life could be pretty good if they could learn to live within
their means. Dale

pasta everywhere

Bruschetta

Fountain of Neptune

Drinking at the Spanish Steps

Fontana di Trevi

Roman parking

Welcome

Only the bravest of drivers would drive in Rome. This city is made for
walking. The Roman custom of double and triple parking is simply
unbelievable. There are mopeds, bicycles and motorcycles everywhere.
Our taxi ride from the airport to Hotel Dei Mellini was downright
thrilling, 15 miles but it took over an hour in traffic that was stop
and go and stop somemore. Our first morning in Rome we had tickets to
visit the Borghese Gallery. We were glad we purchased our tickets from
home on the internet because the museum was sold out for the entire
week. The art pieces gathered by Cardinal Scipione Borghese are
priceless. I am sure it is one of the most incredible art treasure
troves in the world. Unfortunately, no photos were allowed inside the
musuem.

There are piazzas everywhere in Rome but the Piazza Navona is a
personal favorite.

It is a lovely pedestrian zone and pleasant place to stroll or take
respite. There are three fountains in the center of the square by
Bernini and his students. The fountain of Neptune was
originally just a basin but had fish horses statues added later that
are larger than life. This piazza is huge with three lovely fountains.
On the other hand, the famous Fontana di Trevi is a huge fountain in a
small square that can hardly hold all the onlookers. This is not a
fountain, it is a FOUNTAIN, stunning and some people still see Anita
Ekberg splashing in it. (I am smiling and humming the tune Three Coins
in a Fountain as I write this blog) Dale would not let me throw a
coin in the fountain. You recall the tradition, if you throw a coin in
this particular fountain you are destined to return to Rome. He just
wants to get to Paris. Chaoi for now. Gail

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

On the road again!

I have been singing Willie Nelson's famous song "On the Road Again"
all day long. I wonder, why do I love to travel so much? These days
the airlines make travel so difficult. I particularly hate to go
through security. My recent knee replacement sets off every alarm
which undoubtedly ends up in a full body search. (Such a bother) Then
there is the dreaded jet lag. Travel through multiple time zones
leaves me feeling tired and edgy. Common wisdom says to eliminate
caffeine, sugar and alcohol and to eat light and drink lots of water.
Let's be honest, that is not a fun way to begin a vacation! It is also
difficult to leave Wenatchee this time of year. The valley is so
beautiful. I will miss my garden, my family and the fun we have
together. Yet, there is something exciting about the idea of "stepping
away". What a joy it is to travel with my soul mate. Dale and I will
celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary in June. In order to mark the
occasion, we plan to revisit a city we love (Paris) and experience a
few new cities (Rome, Florence and Aix en Provence). Over the past
forty years we have been fortunate enough to venture many places in the
world together. Mark Twain said it very well, "Twenty years from now
you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the
ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe
harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover." So, off we go on another adventure. I can hardly wait to
see Italy, eat gelato, visit historic churches, fountains, statues and
other works of art. Let the fun begin!